Now, Granada was the easternmost point I went to in Spain, and Cordoba was going to be the northernmost. Granada was a bustling centre of students and a hub for a lot of tourists, while Cordoba was described by Lonely Planet as being a city in the midst of a very rural area. The two cities did contrast. Even the journey over was different. While there were mountains on the way to Granada, the road to Cordoba was one of very gently rolling hills, with olive groves as far as the eyes could see. I wondered, as I looked out at the groves, how the whole world could eat as many olives as there must be growing in this area. At times, the olive groves were replaced by fields of sunflowers or wheat stretching from horizon to horizon.
When the bus rolled into the station, I started the game of getting my bearings again. I walked to the historic centre, stopping only to eat some snails at a roadside stand and pick up some free Team Spain gear that someone was handing out. I looked around and around for a hostel, playing the "let's find an affordable, non-crappy place to stay" game. I was starting to feel desparate when I saw a tiny sign for a "Pension", which I had learned was a type of place to stay. I walked down the narrow side street, and checked it out. It was a beautiful, quiet house with a courtyard inside and this kind of old guy running it. I was one of the only people staying there, and he told me I could have a whole floor to myself. I took it for 18 Euros. It was an even nicer place than the one I had in Granada. As a bonus, the place across from it was a music conservatory, and you could hear the sound of pianos being practiced softly. I bought some groceries, and the people who ran the hostel let me keep it in their fridge.
The whole feel of Cordoba was very peaceful and quiet, yet with lots of rich history. Its quietness contradicts its history. It was the capital of a Roman province, a Moorish caliphate, and it was one of the first cities in Andalusia taken back in the Reconquista. During its Moorish period, it was (I think) the biggest city in Europe, and the centre of research and culture, with a university hosting the finest Muslim, Christian, and Jewish minds. In short, it was one of the most happening places to be. All of these era left their mark on the city. Now, it feels very quiet, like as if it retired and thinks back now on its former years. As per custom, I left my bags in the room, and I went to wander the streets of Cordoba. It was much more walkable than Granada, being smaller. My place was located less than a minute or two from "La Juderia", the old medieval Jewish part of the city, which was phenomenally cool. It was, again, hauntingly quiet, with gorgeous, narrow streets which were at times narrower than my arm span. This neighbourhood was like a labyrinth, but I still soon stumbled on the Mezquita, an old mosque with a cathedral built inside it which I will talk about later on. It was beautiful, even from the outside. I walked a little further and found the Guadalquivir River, with an intact Roman Bridge crossing it. I walked on the Roman Bridge and watched the sun set over the old medieval mosque with the river flowing beneath me. It was stunningly beautiful.
I thought about having supper, then I just started watching a World Cup game from the window of an eatery. All of a sudden I heard, "Hey Steve!" It was Amy again! We caught some supper at a place that used to be a monastary. The food in Cordoba was really good, with a regional specialty being Salmorejo, a cold soup with tomato and lots of garlic, and ham and eggs on top. It was seriously delicious. I've had gazpacho, and this is way better. Then, we wandered the streets and found an old Roman temple devoted to the worship of the emperor, just in the middle of the city, as if it were no big deal, then wevgot some ice cream in an old 17th or 18th century square. Amy had found out that if you wanted to go to the Mezquita, it was free if you went early in the morning, so we arranged to meet there the next day.
I went to bed, and slept like a rock...
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